Plateau de Retord

Rising like a green island above the Ain valley, the Plateau de Retord is a high-altitude moorland of rolling pastures, dark spruce forests, and limestone escarpments. Long a secret of Lyon weekenders, this 1,300-metre-high tableland offers a bracing taste of Alpine scenery without the crowds. In summer the air hums with cowbells and the scent of wild thyme; come winter, cross-country ski trails lace the snowfields. This is a place for walkers, foragers, and anyone who craves big skies and simple mountain life.

Highlights & What to See

• Crêt de la Côte de Dôme – The plateau’s highest point (1,426 m) rewards with a 360° panorama sweeping from Mont Blanc to the Massif Central. The short scramble is worth every step.
• Les Gorges de l’Albarine – Just below the plateau’s eastern rim, this dramatic limestone canyon offers a cool, shady walk along the river, with emerald pools perfect for a dip.
• Ferme-Auberge du Retord – A working farm where you can tuck into a fondue savoyarde or tartiflette made with local Comté. Book ahead; the bleu du Retord cheese is sublime.
• Sentier des Planches – An easy, family-friendly trail through flower-strewn meadows and patches of ancient beech forest. Look for the gentiane jaune – the plateau’s signature wildflower.
• Église Saint-Pierre de Retord – A tiny Romanesque chapel with a painted wooden altarpiece, standing alone on the moor. Its silence is profound.

Suggested Time to Spend

Two days allows you to soak up the plateau’s atmosphere without rushing. Arrive early on day one for the Crêt de la Côte de Dôme hike, then spend the afternoon exploring the Gorges de l’Albarine. Stay overnight at a ferme-auberge or in the village of Brénod. Day two is perfect for a gentle walk on the Sentier des Planches and a long lunch of local cheeses and charcuterie. If you’re self-driving, the plateau makes a refreshing detour between Lyon and Geneva, or as part of a loop through the Bugey region.

Nearby Areas Worth Combining

• Bugey – The rugged, forested region south of the plateau, known for its Cerdon sparkling wine and the medieval hilltop village of Pérouges.
• Lac de Nantua – A glacial lake ringed by cliffs, 25 km north. The town of Nantua is famous for its quenelles (fish dumplings) and has a fine aquarium.
• Haut-Jura Regional Nature Park – Continue east into the Jura for more dramatic limestone landscapes, waterfalls, and the ski resort of Les Rousses.
• Lyon – An hour’s drive west, the gastronomic capital offers a perfect city counterpoint to the plateau’s rural calm. Don’t miss the traboules and the Halles Paul Bocuse.
• Gorges de l’Ain – A deep river canyon south of the plateau, ideal for kayaking, rock climbing, and spotting black kites.

Please check official sources for current details.