Photo: Geoffrey Rhodes / CC BY 2.0
Curdimurka is a remote, salt-encrusted ghost town on the western shore of Lake Eyre South in South Australia, a hauntingly beautiful spot that feels like the edge of the world. Once a bustling railway siding on the now-dismantled Marree–Oodnadatta line, it's now a pilgrimage for photographers, adventurers, and anyone captivated by the stark, alien landscapes of the Australian outback. The main draw is the surreal, blinding-white salt flats that stretch to the horizon, often shimmering with a thin layer of water that mirrors the sky. There's no town, no services—just silence, wind, and an overwhelming sense of isolation.
Highlights & What to See
- Lake Eyre South salt flats: Walk onto the vast, cracked salt crust that feels like another planet. After rare rains, the lake transforms into a pink-tinged mirror reflecting the immense blue sky.
- Historic railway ruins: Explore the remnants of the Old Ghan railway—decaying sleepers, twisted rails, and the concrete slab of the former station platform, all slowly being reclaimed by salt.
- Curdimurka Siding shelter: A corrugated-iron shade shelter built by the railway, now a makeshift camp spot for 4WD adventurers. Its graffiti-covered walls tell stories of travellers past.
- Stargazing: With zero light pollution, the night sky here is extraordinary—the Milky Way arches overhead in brilliant detail, and shooting stars are common.
- Photography at sunrise and sunset: The low angle of the sun casts long shadows across the salt, creating dramatic textures and colours that shift from white to gold to deep purple.
Suggested Time to Spend
Most travellers visit Curdimurka as a day trip from a nearby camp, arriving mid-morning to explore the salt flats and ruins, then staying for sunset and stargazing before heading back. If you're camping at the siding, plan for one full day and night—it's enough to soak up the atmosphere without feeling rushed. The extreme environment (intense heat, no shade, no water) means you'll likely want to move on after 24 hours. Combine it with a longer self-drive itinerary along the Oodnadatta Track or the Birdsville Track.
Nearby Areas Worth Combining
- William Creek – A tiny outback pub and fuel stop on the Oodnadatta Track, about 80 km north, with a quirky collection of memorabilia and a scenic flight operator over Lake Eyre.
- Oodnadatta – Historic town with the Pink Roadhouse, a legendary outback pit stop offering fuel, supplies, and local advice, roughly 150 km northwest.
- Marree – The southern gateway to the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks, known for the Marree Man geoglyph and a historic Afghan camel train site.
- Lake Eyre (Halligan Bay Viewing Area) – The most accessible point on Lake Eyre North, about 200 km east, offering a viewing platform over the vast salt pan.
- Coober Pedy – World-famous opal mining town with underground homes and churches, about 250 km west, a surreal contrast to the salt lake landscapes.
Please check official sources for current details.
Note: opening hours, prices and booking requirements change often — please check official sources for current details.
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Image credits
- William Creek — Repat / CC BY 3.0
- Oodnadatta — Kr.afol / CC BY-SA 3.0
- Marree — ogwen / CC BY-SA 3.0
- Lake Eyre — Goddard Space Flight Center’s Landsat Team and the Australian ground receiving station teams. / Public domain
- Coober Pedy — qwesy qwesy / CC BY 3.0
- Oodnadatta Track — Kevin Rheese / CC BY 2.0
- Birdsville Track — Summerdrought / CC BY-SA 4.0