Photo: Adam Thomas / CC BY 2.0
Hicks Bay is a remote, windswept stretch of coastline on the northeastern tip of New Zealand's North Island, where the Pacific rollers crash against dark sand and the hills are cloaked in native bush. This is the gateway to the East Cape, a region of powerful Māori culture, lighthouse walks and near-empty beaches. For travellers on a self-drive odyssey, Hicks Bay offers a genuine off-the-beaten-path experience – think fish-and-chips on a driftwood log, watching the sun rise over the ocean, and feeling the raw energy of the land.
Highlights & What to See
- East Cape Lighthouse – A steep but rewarding walk up to New Zealand's most easterly lighthouse, where you can watch the first sunrise of the day (weather permitting). The 700-odd steps are tough but the 360° views over the Pacific are unforgettable.
- Hicks Bay Beach – A long, dark-sand beach that's perfect for solitary strolls and birdwatching. Swim with care – the surf can be strong – but the isolation is pure magic.
- Te Araroa – Just north, visit the ancient and enormous Te Waha o Rerekohu pōhutukawa tree, thought to be over 600 years old. It's a sacred Māori site and one of the largest of its kind in the country.
- St Mary's Church – In nearby Tikitiki, this beautifully carved Anglican church is a masterpiece of Māori craftsmanship, with intricate tukutuku panels and stained glass that blend Christian and Māori iconography.
- Cape Runaway – A dramatic headland with a historic pā site, offering sweeping views and a sense of deep history.
Suggested Time to Spend
Hicks Bay itself is a brief stop – half a day is enough to walk the beach, grab a coffee at the local store and soak in the atmosphere. However, to do justice to the wider East Cape, plan on at least two full days. Use Hicks Bay as a base for a loop that includes the lighthouse walk, Te Araroa and the coast road down to Gisborne. The driving is slow and winding, so factor in plenty of time to pull over and admire the views.
Nearby Areas Worth Combining
- Gisborne – The closest city, famous for its surf breaks, wineries and as the first place in the world to see the sun each day. Pair it with Hicks Bay for a coastal road trip.
- Opotiki – The western gateway to the East Cape, with a lovely historic wharf and access to the Waioeka Gorge. A good place to stock up on supplies.
- Te Urewera – A vast, protected native forest with walking tracks, lakes and the chance to experience Māori-guided tours. It's a detour inland, but well worth it for hikers.
- Whakatane – A sunny coastal town with access to White Island (Whakaari) volcano tours and the Moutohorā Island wildlife sanctuary.
Please check official sources for current details.
Note: opening hours, prices and booking requirements change often — please check official sources for current details.
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Image credits
- Gisborne — Andrew Francis / Public domain
- Opotiki — Rongo Keene / CC BY 3.0
- Te Urewera — Original uploader was Lanma726 at en.wikipedia / CC BY-SA 3.0
- Whakatane — Chris Thompson / CC BY 2.0
- East Cape Lighthouse — Thomas Berwing / CC BY-SA 4.0
- Te Araroa — ShakyIsles / CC BY-SA 4.0